20 November 05

Thirty Years Ago Today...

... Franco died. Amnesty International has calculated that about 30,000 people disappeared and were buried in mass graves either during the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) or under Franco’s long rule.

I was in boarding school in England in 1975. I remember worrying about my family in Madrid, about whether there would be some kind of violence. I remember wondering how many people would emerge from the woodwork, people who had been in hiding pretty much since the War. About who’d return from exile.

The running joke of course was that nobody was ever really sure if Franco was dead, or when he had died, or whether he’d be coming back in some grotesque parody of the resurrection (a book did in fact appear a couple of years later entitled Y el Tercer Año Resucitó.) The war memorial he built (well, his prisoners of war built) into a mountainside northwest of Madrid was his own mausoleum. His tomb lies just below the mosaic image of Christ Triumphant in the cupola, which is a few centimeters smaller in diameter than St. Peter’s (lest the Caudillo be accused of being bigger than his boots).

There was a huge mass yesterday in the Valle de los Caídos for Franco. Hundreds of arms raised in fascist salutes. They are upset, it seems, with the Socialist government’s systematic dismantling of the temporal power of the church in Spain.

Posted by at 09:30 PM in Politics | Link |
  1. That Mass, those salutes… Chilling, isn’t it all? Particularly when I realize that part of the reason I found it discouraging wasn’t so much that it was surprising—because on reflection it isn’t—but that subconsciously I’ve been looking to Europe as a bit of exemplary hope in contrast to here.

    We have official separation of church and state, and perhaps the hope that a number of quarrelling churches will maintain that in the long run. In many ways, though, some European countries seem to be actually practicing separation better than we manage to.

    Thanks for this post. Cause for reflection, hopeful as well as scary.
    Ron Sullivan    21. November 2005, 08:54    Link

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